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What Minis Are You Painting?
- hotseatgames
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edit- I forgot I did paint the base with khorne red first. Check youtube for warhammer's how to paint skitarii video with the illustrious Duncan.
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- Michael Barnes
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- Astrogranite the base. You REALLY want the Citadel Texture Spreader for it...I was skeptical, and tried using coffee stirrers, straws, toothpicks and other things to put it on, but that tool is perfectly suited for application. Astrogranite is the gray texture paint
- Paint over the Astrogranite with Teclis Blue.
- Wash with Nuln Oil. It will look really dark but that's OK, you have not ruined the base. Let dry for three years or whatever.
- Drybrush Lothern Blue.
- Rim the base in either Steel Legion Drab or Mechanicus Standard Gray. Or go nuts and do Retributor Gold.
This will give your bases a color and texture that looks nice with the Silver Tower tiles- sort of that "Tzeentchy Blue". You could also do this with Ahriman/Thousand Sons Blue, but that is more of a green tone and it's also more muted.
I really like the texture paints- they are SUPER simple to use, you don't have to worry about basing materials getting all over the place and flaking off, and they look great if you wash/drybrush. You really don't want to just leave it unfinished, it doesn't look that great. Agrellan Earth, for example, looks not so good if you don't do a little more too.
There are really two types of texture paints here. One is the Agrellan Earth/Martian Ironearth style where it is essentially a paint with a crackling medium. These, there are some techniques that pay off with these aside from just brushing them on. One is that you can paint a color underneath them that will impact how the cracks look. They also can be layered on REALLY thick for a greater effect or you can put some PVA glue on first, let it dry, and then paint the texture on it. It will exaggerate the crackling effect. Those ridges are also take to drybrushing well, obviously. I've experimented with painting this stuff over sand and rocks too, it does some neat stuff.
The other type of paint is the microbead/grit style. These give you a rocky or muddy sort of look. Astrogranite and Stirland Mud are sort of rock/dirt looks. There is also a discontinued GREEN one, Lustrian Undergrowth (I stockpiled five pots of this for my Seraphon). Washing really brings out the grain in these, and then you drybrush a light color to highlight.
There are also "regular" and "thick" versions of each paint- such as Astrongranite and Astrogranite Debris. The "thick" versions have more texturing, but they are also better suited for larger bases. That said, this stuff is pretty expensive for larger bases- for big models, I'd recommend the ol' PVA/sand/flock/rocks/etc. method.
I did all of my Stormcast with Astrogranite/Nuln Oil/Longbeard Gray. I tend to prefer bases that are more neutral, I don't like really specific "display" oriented bases. If you use something really neutral like that and use a neutral rim color (like Steel Legion Drab) then it will look good on any terrain or tile. If you use something like the Shattered Dominion bases, it will look goofy if you are battling in the snow or on plains. I am planning on doing my Primaris Marines like this.
There is a snow texture, but I've never used it.
The Martian Ironearth, I would steer clear of UNLESS you want that reddish ground, like for Skitarii.
Finally- put this stuff on THICK. It doesn't really work unless you gob it on there. I thought my first uses of Agrellan Earth didn't work. It's because I didn't enough on there.
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I was able to try some freehand stuff including tiger stripe camo and a dragon head which I thought both came out fantastic; the lesson here is just try stuff you might be really happy with the results. Sure there are some things I prolly would clean up if it were my model, but kinda made it fun to not be in perfection mode, I'm gonna try to keep more of that attitude when I paint other stuff. As always next to a poorly painted Scale Marine.
Hopefully I get some more painting done and posted soon.
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- Michael Barnes
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Painting Primaris Marines tonight...they are FUN to paint. I'm trying to level up a bit, following DBD's advice above about just trying things...I'm going by the GW suggested sequences but sort of freeballing it. I'm also using retarder medium for the first time, and I really like how that's working. It's VERY helpful when you are on a 00-000 brush, which tends to dry out really quickly and become unworkable. This retarder (Vallejo) stops that from happening. They are looking pretty decent, definitely better than the SMs I was painting around this time last year.
I've got all of the Death Guard built, scared to death of painting those guys. Waiting for the new Death Guard Green paint to come out Saturday before I even think about it. I just want them to look really awesome.
Really need to get back to painting the Galvanic Servohaulers, that is such a cool set.
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- san il defanso
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- Michael Barnes
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I finished five of my Primaris marines and broke to do some terrain...painted up the Manufactorum in about two hours, that was really fun. I kind of dreaded it, but I just did some simple techniques and kept it a little sloppy since it's ruined terrain and should look tore up anyway. I've been working on the Galvanic Servohaulers, which I've really enjoyed painting too. I'm especially proud of how the little tractors look- I tried some different weathering stuff and it paid off. Secret to good "dirty" looks- Typhus Corrosion (again), Golgfag Brown, a sponge.
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- Michael Barnes
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LOVE this kit. I kind of wish GW would just do a line of service vehicles and industrial machinery. More stuff like this and the containers. These were really fun to paint, and not very hard to get what I think is at least a decent look. I'm surprised my "engine glow" effect and the weathering turned out, I thought for sure I was going to blow it with the FX stuff. I half thought about doing them in John Deere colors just for a laugh, but I went with a scheme that matched up with the rest of my industrial terrain.
Working on Poxwalkers right now...I'm using Duncan's method, which is REALLY cool- the skin is all shades, no bases/layers. It looks really good, but he doesn't put any Nurgle Rot on them which I think is a mistake- it makes all of the boils and warts and pimples look sticky and wet. They are great little models, as far as "cultist" class figures go I think they are among the best GW has ever done. They have LOADS of little details, like maggots in unexpected places. I've got _40_ of these little bastards to paint.
On tap after those- back to finishing the second Intercessor squad and then probably a set of Quake Cannon Craters I found at a local shop (they are really hard to find for some reason).
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- Matt Thrower
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- Michael Barnes
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Like I said, I did Duncan's "all shades" method for the skin/boils/guts/tentacles and I think it worked really well. It's SUPER EASY except for the fact that it is hard to correct if you screw up or accidentaly get paint on it. There's also a lot of drying time built into this method.
- White prime (has to be or it won't work)
- Reikland Fleshshade- this will base the skin with a reddish, pinkish hue but it's translucent so the broad, flat areas will balance it out with the shaded recesses.
- Athonian Camoshade on the nasty bits and all the horn-like protrusions
- Athonian Camoshade again, focusing on the crevasses and the protrusions
- Druichii Violet on bruised/distended areas and a touch on the face, also on any kind of tentacles or guts
- Druichii Violet again on the tentacles and guts. Pretty liberal so it tints them darker.
That's all. No need to base or layer and the shades sort of blend themselves naturally. Pretty nifty, and I'm curious to try it out with some other colors of shade. I added some Nurgle's Rot to the lesions- it's a neat technical paint. It's pretty translucent, but it is a sickly green and it has a gloss medium. So it looks slimy and sticky and it also punches up the green a touch. The photos don't show that very well, but the boils and stuff look sort of wet. Which is gross. My son looked at the back of one of them and said "GROSS!"
Really enjoyed doing these, they have a lot of personality and some fun to paint elements.
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- hotseatgames
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- Michael Barnes
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In some ways, they were much easier to paint than most figures. That shade technique, I'm telling you, is like liquid magic. It really works with the translucent quality of the shade, the way it tints rather than covers, and layering it on top of other shades. I seriously started wondering if I could paint EVERYTHING this way!
I do think I am going to try it with some of the Death Guard guys...some folks do a really pale, pallid color scheme with them and I think this technique would work well for that.
I just got my Roboute Guilliman in, which marks the most I have paid for a single miniature to date ($45). Not sure if I am looking forward to painting him, or if I am terrified of painting him.
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