What Minis Are You Painting?

san il defanso wrote: SA couple of the paints were really garbage, especially the white, which was almost creamy.

That's because Ceramite White is probably the worst paint in the entire Citadel line. They should have used the superior White Scar layer paint instead. Yes, it takes more coats to get white, but it also doesn't suck.

The minis look great!

Barnes's suggestions are all pretty solid, although I prefer not using transfers. The Ultima symbol can be painted as a white circle with a bar on top, followed by carefully filling in the middle of the white with blue. GW Gehenna's Gold will provide the warmer gold associated with the Ultramarines in the artwork. If you like the flatter, dull look, GW Golden Griffon works well.

I thin all of my paints (not washes or glazes) in the pot with with my homebrew solvent blend (about 20-30% of the starting volume). So the 12-ml Citadel paints get 2-4 ml of solvent added in, depending on the starting consistency of the paint. I then further thin on the palette with a little water mixed in. If I am painting large areas of light or bright colors, I'll use a wet palette to keep it even more thinned.

Get up get get down, Ceramite White is a joke in your town.

It really is probably GW's worst paint. It's like a big ol' dollop of paste. You stick the brush in and the bristles bend on the surface. It's not dry enough to be useful like the Citadel dry paints (which are excellent, BTW). It doesn't even cover that well. If you watch the GW videos, they use White Scar almost every time over Ceramite White.

If I made videos, I would totally spoof on Duncan Rhodes. I like the guy and he's obviously a talented painter, but I swear that dude is an automaton with a set number of statements.

"And now just paint this, well, all over really"

He is totally the Bob Ross of the hobby.

I've been watching his videos, since I'm starting to paint Gorechosen tonight. He hasn't yet told me how I can get his rock steady dexterity. I'm hoping it's in an upcoming video.

What about his Christ-like patience, he essentially paints every piece twice. Two coats on everything.

But... but... I use at least two coats on all of my base coats...

I might have a problem.

MEK is a bad ass airbrush solvent but you MUST do it outside or somewhere you have LOTS of fresh air. It's water soluble so it isn't a contaminant, and it evaporates much faster than alcohol.

It also has a neat effect for KS Bones - it welds them. It's 100% superior to super glue and literally melts the parts together without damaging them.

It's also been banned in many countries...

I bet the Tenex or Plastic Weld stuff would work the same way on the Reaper Bones figs. I'll have to give it a go.

Michael Barnes wrote: He is totally the Bob Ross of the hobby.

I was thinking the same thing, I could just watch Duncan paint for an hour or two.

Presenting Heldrax Goretouched, from Gorechosen.

Finished a venerable dread.

Rats.

So I was wondering if anyone here could give me some advice on basing the Terminators from Space Hulk. I'd rather not rebase them, since I have the battlefoam insert for the game, but I also don't want to just leave them plain black.

I used the painting guide in the White Dwarf that came out with the re-release: theezwayz.free.fr/whitedwarf/wd033.pdf

I'm going to use the same technique as the metals for the floor. Leadbelcher -> Nuln Oil -> Necron Compound. It somewhat matches the tiles and looks decent.

You know what might look better, base with Leadbelcher and then put a little Typhus Corrosion on it. This is a really cool technical paint with an unusual, kind of oily consistency. It applies kind of like a wash but more smeary on the surfaces. It also has a little grit in it. If it's doo dark after, maybe do just a little detailing with Leadbelcher again. The hit with a VERY LIGHT Ryza Rust- it's a dry paint so it's made for drybrushing. It will pick up that grit and the edges and give a rusted, worn look to the metal. But be careful because Ryza Rust is actually orange so too much of it will look goofy.

All of the above works for any kind of rusted, worn metal really. It looks great, even if you are a rank amateur it adds a nice, detailed touch.

As for my painting report, I started working on Sylvaneth. Went with the Dryads because they were fairly simple. I followed Duncan for most of it, but I think that tutorial is really kind of shoddy- it's really more of a speed painting thing despite the usual ONE MORE highlight thing going on. It didn't give enough color. So I went back in and changed some of the brown bark stuff to green and added a couple of extra touches like a dab of Bloodletter in the eyes. They look pretty good, partially because I went bananas on the basing- I used THREE different materials, woo ha! I did static grass, a little sand, and big chunky rocks. BUT GET THIS. I put a little glue on the big rocks and THEN put the grass on...so some of the grass stuck to the top of the rocks, like moss! It's really amazing.

I really like glazes...they are a great way to punch up color when something looks too dull. My leaves are Castellan Green/Loren Forest/Lamenter's Yellow. That yellow glaze makes them really stand out.

I'll likely do the Branchwych next...I'm sitting here looking at the Treelord Ancient all assembled and thinking "how the hell am I going to paint that". I stepped away from Seraphon for a while because I wanted to build up a little more skill, I may shelf the Treelord too.

A couple of weeks ago MM had a big sale on storage stuff, I bought like 15 of their Game Supply foams. They're pretty good, I wish I had bought the bag and like 15 more.

Do you paint the rocks, Barnes? If so, with what?
And, by the way, you promised to post pictures of the 200+ minis you've painted. You're telling us that you paint super-fast and they look super-awesome, but where is the proof?