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What Minis Are You Painting?
Hammer Bros.
I was going for a greenish stone with hints of gold and copper, but it ended up looking a bit heavy on the metallic side. I don't hate it, but I'll likely stipple some grey over the hammers it to knock it down a bit. The picture does not do justice to the depth of the body color which is too bad.
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- GorillaGrody
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- Matt Thrower
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- Shiny Balls
- Number Of Fence
The first one took ages in dribs and drabs. Then I did two more in a burst of a few days. Then the last one I got bored so it was dribs and drabs again.
Ironically I started with these first because they're my least favourite warband. Was never much of a fan of GW Orcs and I like them even less now they're Orruks or whatever. But it seemed a good way to re-acquaint myself with a brush as it wouldn't matter too much if it went wrong.
Another photo here that will just not attach for some reason
1drv.ms/u/s!Aud9y2sjHqsPg8tr0Oa8t13-IfM7YQ
To be honest, I'm not massively enthusiastic about the sculpts and fluff of any of the bands. I like the Briar Queen and the Sepulchral Guard the best (my WFB armies were Empire and Vampire Counts) but the number of models puts me off when I'm so slow. What I'd really like is Nurgle, but it doesn't exist. Yet.
Going to do Steelheart next in a hoplite style, all bronze and limited colour so it should be a bit faster. Maybe only 6 months.
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- Michael Barnes
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Here’s what you do.
Spray Corax white
Brush with either Hexwraith Flame/Nighthaunt Gloom/Nihilakh Oxide
Done. You can get fancy and dry brush with Ulthuan Gray. If you want more depth, wash with Coelia Greenshade and then do that. If you think they need more, Leadbelcher the metals. But they actually look good one ghostly color.
The Corax White is the critical element there- other whites don’t work as well for this technique.
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- Matt Thrower
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Michael Barnes wrote: The Corax White is the critical element there- other whites don’t work as well for this technique.
Great tips. but I'd be grateful if you could elaborate further on why this is? I don't generally use spray paints - they're expensive and I don't trust them to cover properly. And I normally undercoat black, so I'd not use a white spray for anything else. But corax white is only available as a spray so I'd prefer to go with a pot paint colour if possible?
Agree on the idea of leaving them mostly white, but I won't be able to resist on painting in the metals at least. I love that Varclav the Cruel model, and I feel it would be dull without all those barbs and mail and keys blocked in. Plus I like the idea of dead spirits using real weapons to cause real damage to the living.
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MattDP wrote: Great tips. but I'd be grateful if you could elaborate further on why this is? I don't generally use spray paints - they're expensive and I don't trust them to cover properly. And I normally undercoat black, so I'd not use a white spray for anything else. But corax white is only available as a spray so I'd prefer to go with a pot paint colour if possible?
You really do like taking the slow paint route, a spray will save you time and you can get colour match pots from places like Army Painter as well as Gamesworkshop for any undercuts that don't get a full coat.
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- Matt Thrower
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Jazzbeaux wrote: You really do like taking the slow paint route, a spray will save you time and you can get colour match pots from places like Army Painter as well as Gamesworkshop for any undercuts that don't get a full coat.
It's the money, mostly. I don't like lavishing cash just to save time, and a can is 3-4 the price of a pot and doesn't cover as many figures. Plus if you're having to paint over gaps, it's not actually saving that much time.
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I now use heavy duty cardboard tubes (get them from work) with blutac to attach the figures. I can then rotate the tube as I spray and more importantly get an angle underneath. Now 95% coverage! Do need to do outside though...
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- GorillaGrody
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- GorillaGrody
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- GorillaGrody
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